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Obidos: a Fairytale kingdom. 

The fortified walls surrounding the hilltop town are still in tact. We traverse the narrow Cobblestone streets to one of my favorite churches for Mass. 


Santa Maria de Obidos

The old building smell is strong but there’s something about this place. Maybe it’s the quiet? It doesn’t feel as touristy as some of the bigger cities. These are also the hardest kneelers I live been on. Made of wood, but I’m pretty sure it’s harder than stone. A quiet penance to offer up. Except for the fact that I’m writing about it so maybe it’s not as sacrificial. Just want you to feel like you’re here with me! 


It’s a beautiful day for a patio!

We spend the rest of the morning enjoying the weather. 


Monestary of Alcobeca 

Built in honor of St Bernard of Clairvaox the cousin of the first king of Portugal. Built over 400 years for Cistercian monks who follow the rule of St Benedict. Something I will learn about one day. 

Some say at one point there were 1000 monks living here! It’s definitely big enough being the Largest church in all of Portugal.


The white stone walls of the church are kept empty to give monks the silence and space to be with God. The church is built to resemble God in depth, height and vastness. 


They also wanted light in its natural form so you won’t find stained glass here. 


The alter is kept simple too with the most important images: Our Lord and Our Lady. 


There are 500 active parishioners today. 


There’s a story about a King’s mistress he claimed to marry in secret. But someone thought it wasn’t right so they killed her. Of course the heartbroken king didn’t like that so he took out the hearts of the men who killed her. I didn’t get all the details but that’s the gist. Both are buried here. 


It’s all about who you know! Our fearless pilgrimage leaders have connections to get us insider access. The sacristy is not open to the public. We got a private tour from the main pastor. 

 

At the end of the sacristy is a 400 year old Reliquary. The pastor led us in prayer in this very special place. 


And that’s just the church. There’s a whole monetary that’s now a museum to see!


Feeding that many means a big kitchen.

This kitchen comes equipped with its own river fed pond. No need for a fishing pole. The fish come to the chef!


Then to keep the monks in line there’s a door to ensure they are staying fit.

If you couldn’t fit through the door it means it’s time to fast more. I did not think to include a door like this when remodeling. The pantry isn’t done so maybe I should consider it. 😆


The bedroom is huge with a beautiful lookout one way and direct access to the church another..

Can you tell the time?

Another architectural feature I appreciate is how they did added variation within the uniformity. Look closer at that last photo. The medallions are circles but each have different patterns. It makes me think of all of humanity. From a distance we look the same but up close we have our unique variations. This is repeated on all the arches and columns and any place there’s a circular medallion.


These stairs take you up or down and all around!



That evening at dinner I was not planning on attending the international rosary. I went last year. Hear about that here. It starts late. It’s cold outside. So many reasons not to go.


But then… I hear another pilgrim say “I just don’t get anything out of it.” And it all clicked in my heart.


We don’t pray the rosary to get something out of it (although I started that way), it’s an act of love for God. It’s not a box to check. It’s a relationship building block.


So I went. And I’m grateful I did.

Our pilgrims had the 4th Glorious Mystery just like I did last year and it had the same scripture I read last year. And I teared up. Just like last year.


I’ve also been practicing the rosary in Latin so I was able to follow along better with the other decades we prayed!

 
 
 

‘Twas a bit rainy when we rolled into town and there was a hike from where the bus could park to get to the hotel… an adventure!


I forgot my umbrella. Thankfully I have friends in the group.


Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

the place of burial for St. James the Greater, one of the twelve apostles and the first to be martyred. This holy shrine has been one of the most important Christian pilgrimage sites since medieval times outside of Rome and Jerusalem. The Cathedral had its groundbreaking in 1060.


St. James tried to evangelize the Iberian Peninsula about 40 years after the resurrection of Christ. The people did not react very enthusiastically to the good news of the Gospel he preached. One day in prayer the Blessed Virgin (who was still alive at the time so she bi-located) appeared to St. James. She was a top a pillar of jasper carried by angels. She was holding a small wooden statue of herself which she gave to St. James, requesting a church be built on that spot. There is now a beautiful Basilica there known as Our Lady of the Pillar in Zaragoza, Spain. St. James returned to Jerusalem where he was beheaded. His

body was then taken back to Spain. It was at this time that conversions to the faith flourished. The blood of the martyrs

is the seed of the Church.


Many people walk the Camino de Santiago now. I’m curious how many realize that it’s a Christian pilgrimage not just an extreme hike.


The massive cathedral has lots of side chapels with statues. This one caught my attention the most. In a church covered in gold leaf the blood on the crucifix stands out.


Botafumeiro

At the end of Mass we had the joy of experiencing the giant thurible (incenser) that takes eight men to swing. I saw this in a movie a few months ago and wondered where it was funny how so many seemingly little things I saw online or in a movie within this last year I’m now seeing in real life!

 

Hospedería San Martín Pinario 

Our hotel is a XVIth century monastery. 


The restaurant is the old cafeteria for the monks.

Since they lived mostly in silence someone would read scripture to them from the lookout (not a technical term) above. The acoustics are solid. 


I didn’t learn until the end of devouring dessert that it’s the famous cake from Santiago. 

It was good. 


And the wine! 🤤 I would like more of this in my life. 


Church of Santa Maria Salome

Salome is the mother of the apostles St. James and St. John, and one of the “three Marys” at the foot of the cross.

We had mass first thing in the morning. It was a joy to watch the lights slowly come on as if the church as waking up with the world.

 
 
 

We didn't visit in this order but for sake of keeping the apparitions semi organized I’ll write it out in the order it happened. 


We head north to Spain!


Convent of St. Dorothy In Pontevedra, Spain

On December 10, 1925 while praying in the chapel, Our Mother Mary and Child Jesus appeared to Sr. Lucia to request the First Saturday Devotion.



At this same convent, on February 15, 1926, Sr Lucia is out in the garden. A young boy walks by and they start chatting. She asks him if he knows the Hail Mary. He says yes. She tries to get him to say it with her. He doesn’t. 


She encourages him to go visit this church down the street. 


He then asks her if she’s spreading the Frist Saturday Devotion like Our Blessed Mother asked. She realizes this isn’t any boy, this is the Child Jesus!


There’s a curious statue in the garden (pictured) with an interesting dedication connected to the US. Call me to hear the rest of the story on this one! I don’t want to put speculation in writing. But hearing this story last year is what convinced me to practice the First Saturdays.



This is the church down the street:

Basilica of Saint Mary Major (Pontevedra)

No photos of course but they do have videos explaining every bit of the church! I wish I’d have walked around to the front too after googling it… whoa!

This video is particularly interesting explaining the crucifix in this church. I’ve been analyzing them more. So many of the crucifixes in the US are “sanitized”… cleaned up. Not bloody. I think it’s hard then to reflect on what He sacrificed, the brutality He went through so we could spend eternity in heaven. I’ve heard reflections on connecting our sins today to piercing His Heart the same way (or worse) as being scourged at the pillar. And if you’re a mom you probably understand better than the rest of us how much your heart hurts when someone hurts your kid.



Down the road in Tui, Spain…

Dorthean Convent

This is the Chapel where the last Fatima apparition occurred: the Apparition of the Most Holy Trinity on June 13, 1929.

Sr Lucia was praying her holy hour from 11pm to midnight as she always did. The only light in the chapel was the tabernacle candle. Then the Holy Trinity with Our Lady and the words Grace and Mercy appear. This is a recreation based on Sr Lucia’s description.

 
 
 

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